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32 Tips for Buying and Caring for your Furniture
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Tip #1 - Waxy Build-up
When most people think they have a wax build up, most likely
the culprit is a softened finish. Oil from your skin, food
oils, and some detergents can break down a finish making it
sticky, which in turn collects dirt and grime. If the
problem lies on an area that is frequently touched. To clean
it, try using mineral spirits or naphtha as your cleaning
agent. Using a soft rag or #0000 steel wool, this is good
for getting rid of a waxy build up. A word of caution
though, if your finish has softened all the way through to
the wood, this process could leave you with bare wood. If
your finish has gotten that bad to start with, there isn't
anything else you can do to reverse it other than stripping
and refinishing anyway.
Tip #2 - Hiding Light Scratches
One of the best way's I have found is using a padding
lacquer. It really works well on household woodwork as well
as furniture when you get a light colored scratch in the
finish. You will need a soft cloth. Fold the corners until
you can make a tight ball out of the center. Apply the
padding lacquer to the pad and tap it into the palm of your
hand. (Gloves come in handy here). This will spread it
through the pad. Lightly pad in the direction of the grain
like it is an airplane coming in for a landing then taking
off again. Don't over pad or come to a stopped landing. Let
it dry for a couple minute's and reapply if needed until the
scratch is melted back in. Usually one swipe is all it
takes. This will leave a high gloss finish if you keep
padding, so you may have to pad the whole surface to make it
all look the same.
Another way of removing light scratches is rubbing the out
with polishing compounds. These are best used on high gloss
sheens.
If your table has a satin or dull sheen, grab a pad of OOOO
Steel wool and some lemon oil or wool lube . Put some on the
pad and rub the spot moving in the direction of the grain.
This only works on minor scratches, and you may need to rub
the rest of the surface so the sheen is even. Make sure you
go with the grain in long even strokes from one end to the
other. To finish the task, simply wipe off the remaining oil
and apply your favorite polish.
If you need to add color to the scratch, Touch up markers
and fill sticks come in real handy.
Tip #3 - Painting Over an Existing Finish
To paint over an existing finish, there are a few things to
consider. One is the overall condition of the original
finish. Most factory finishes are done in lacquer and older
finishes tend to lose their plasticity and get hairline
cracks running through it. If this has happened to your
piece or you have bare or worn spots, it may be worthwhile
to go ahead and strip the old finish off. Otherwise the
cracks will show up in the finished project.
If your finish looks sound, Where you need to start is by
removing all the hardware. Any parts that also come off, may
make the job easier.
Grab some naphtha or mineral spirits and some clean cloth
rags, and wipe the whole piece down once or twice. This will
remove any furniture polish or body oils that may still be
present. If there is any organic matter left on it, you may
have to use a damp rag to remove it before moving on to the
next step.
In order to provide the new finish tooth to adhere to, you
will need to do some sanding with 400 grit wet or dry
sandpaper. sand it until you have removed all traces of the
original sheen. To get into some nooks and crevasses, a
general purpose Maroon scotch-brite pad works well. Once you
are done with the sanding, give it a good blowing off with
compressed air (Wear your particle mask) or vacuum up the
dust followed with a damp rag.
With all the prep work done, give it a final wipe down with
naphtha and let it dry for at least 30 minutes prior to
applying your first coat of paint. Make sure you doing it in
a dry dust free environment if you can. A tack rag is a very
important finishing tool. Oil based finishes are going to be
the most compatible to the lacquer, and hold up the best.
They do require a paint thinner for cleanup instead of
water. Make sure you follow the instructions on the can.
Tip #4 - White spots from water.
This is the question I get asked the most. How do I remove
the white rings and spots on my furniture. Given enough
time, water can cause as much damage to wood as can fire.
The first step in removing a fresh white spot or ring is
simply to do nothing except remove the source of the
moisture and any remaining on the woods surface. Then wait.
(Do not apply any furniture polish)
What the white ring consists of is water vapor trapped on
the surface of the finish. In some instances, fresh white
rings will disappear if given the time to be absorbed by dry
air. High humidity will slow this process. A hair dryer will
speed up the process, but set it on low and use discretion.
Do not, however, presume that if a little heat is good, more
heat is better-and reach for the heat gun. The white ring
may disappear, but only because you melted the finish around
it .
If the white ring refuses to leave on it's own, then you
must try the following three suggestions.
If your table has a satin or dull sheen, grab a pad of OOOO
Steel wool and some lemon oil or wool lube . Put some on the
pad and rub the spot moving in the direction of the grain.
Once the spot is gone, you may need to rub the rest of the
table top so the sheen is even. Make sure you go with the
grain in long even strokes from one end to the other. To
finish the task, simply wipe off the remaining oil and apply
your favorite polish.
If you have a glossy sheen, You may try using a little bit
of white tooth paste on a dry cotton towel. If this leaves a
glossier spot than the rest of the table, then you will need
to get some rubbing compounds and polishes like you would
use on a car's finish. If a mirror finish is not what you
want, you can always adjust it down with the OOOO steel
wool. Don't forget to use your favorite polish when your
done.
Another simple remedy that sometimes works, is to spread
some Vaseline on the damage and wipe it off after the spot
is gone.
If none of these has worked, then the moisture has
penetrated through the finish and is not repairable without
refinishing.
Tip #5 - Do it yourself Don'ts
If you are trying to repair furniture yourself, do not use
any nails, screws, air nail guns, duct tape, twine, metal
brackets, coat hangers or other creative fasteners. It just
makes things harder for us professionals when you do finally
bring in it. Do not use any glue other than yellow or white
Carpenters Glue or Hide Glue.
Tip #6 - Humidity thoughts
Be aware of humidity when doing your own finish work. High
humidity in the air will keep finish from drying or will
make it "blush" (turn white and dull). If you are having a
professional do your finish work, please allow several extra
days for your piece to dry completely before using it.
Tip #7 - Is it really solid wood?
Be cautious when buying furniture. Just because someone says
it is "solid wood" doesn't mean it is good. Particle board
and MDF (Medium Density Fiberboard) are still "wood" but
they aren't what you think. They are very hard to repair and
much heavier than "real" wood. They will NOT last if under
heavy use. Always ask, "Solid what wood?" Furniture marked
Solid Oak or Cherry or Ash is a better bet.
Tip #8 - Potpourri Kills
Believe it or not, potpourri (just about any kind) will eat
the finish off of furniture even if it's still in a plastic
bag! Don't ever put it directly on any finished piece, even
if in a cloth or plastic bag.
Tip #9 - Buying chairs
When buying chairs, turn them over and look for any
indication of screws or nails. If you see them, it means
that the manufacturer did not trust the joints to stay
together on their own. It might also mean that significant
modifications have been made to the chair in the past that
may cause future problems. A professional restoration/repair
shop should NEVER add screws or nails where none were
present before.
Tip #10 - Removing color
Stripping furniture does not necessarily remove the color
from the wood. It may not be possible to lighten the piece
to the desired color if it is stained dark. As a general
rule, you can always go darker, but you can't always lighten
it later. Just to be safe, before staining a light wood,
make sure that you are comfortable with it being dark
forever. if your furniture has been stained with an aniline
dye, you can use some Stain-away to bleach it out. Make sure
you do it out doors with a respirator.
Tip #11 - Plasticizer migration
Do not keep anything made of plastic or vinyl in contact of
the finish for extended periods, which includes table cloths
and place mats. The Plasticizers can leach out and
permanently soften some lacquer finishes. Vinyl tablecloths
can be used as long as they are not left on for weeks at a
time. Catalyzed finishes and polyurethane are not as
susceptible to damage.
Tip #12 - Squeaky bed frames
If you have metal bed frames and they squeak, simply apply
some oil to the rivets to quiet them down. If your bed is
made of wood and it squeaks, it most likely is getting loose
and needs to be re-glued.
Tip #13 - Sticky drawers
Any time you have wood moving against wood, you will need
something to keep the parts lubricated. If you have drawers
that like to stick, try rubbing some clear Briwax or any
other brand of paste wax on both the drawer and the wood it
rides upon. It is sometimes shocking what a difference it
can make. If it doesn't help, most likely the drawer will
need some repair or is worn down.
Tip #14 - Removing dark stains from wood
To remove darks rings, stains or gray oxidation, you will
need to use some oxalic acid crystals. It is the main
ingredient in the so called deck brighteners. To use them,
you have to mix them with warm water until you reach a
saturated solution meaning it won't dissolve anymore. Only
mix the amount you need. You will need to apply it with a
synthetic brush giving the entire surface a good wet coat
(not just the stain) . The wood will need to be bare and
lightly sanded prior to this step. Make sure you apply it to
the whole surface and not just the spot. Leave the acid on
until it dries or until the stain has vanished. Follow that
with a couple washes of water to removed the residue. The
grain will be raised after it dries, so you will need to
sand it smooth before finishing. Make sure you use a
particle mask when sanding because what crystals are left
over will make you sneeze if you inhale them. Do it outdoors
if possible.
Tip #15 - Removing nail polish from a finish
This can be a tricky one even for a professional. The only
thing you can try is some 600 grit wet or dry sandpaper and
a hard flat sanding block. Make sure you hold the block
level while sanding the glue down flush. You will get into
the surrounding finish, so try to keep it to a minimum. If
the polish is pretty thick, you might mask around the spot
to protect the area around it.
Once you get it sanded level, you will need to finish
sanding the spot with 1200 grit paper.
To get the shine back on a high gloss finish, it will take
some rubbing compounds and polishes on a cotton rag and some
elbow grease Make sure you polish the entire surface so it
all looks the same. Apply your favorite polish to finish it
up.
If your table has a satin or dull sheen, grab a pad of OOOO
Steel wool and some lemon oil or wool lube . Put some on the
pad and rub the spot moving in the direction of the grain.
Once the spot is gone, you may need to rub the rest of the
table top so the sheen is even. Make sure you go with the
grain in long even strokes from one end to the other. To
finish the task, simply wipe off the remaining oil and apply
your favorite polish.
Tip #16 - Removing that musty odor
To begin the process of removing a musty odor from the
inside of your furniture, you will need to have a spray
bottle of denatured alcohol or other anti microbial spray.
Open the cabinet and take out all of the drawers and spray
the entire inside of the piece. This will kill any mold
spores that may be lurking.
Let it dry opened up in a sunny place for a good week. If
this hasn't done the job, you will need to go to the next
step of sealing the raw wood with any type of finish which
will seal in the odor. You could also purchase a small
electric ozone generator to eat up the odor causing
molecules.
A new approach might be using one of the new products for
removing odors from fabrics like Febreeze. Although I would
still suggest killing the mold spores first. I have had a
customer who had success with putting an open can of ground
coffee inside to absorb the odor.
Tip #17 - Handling and Moving Furniture
In addition to using furniture wisely, it is important
to handle it carefully. Safe handling and moving of
furniture begin with a basic understanding of how a piece is
constructed. The second step is to plan carefully.
General Concerns
Before picking up a piece of furniture, determine how it is
put together and if any of its parts are removable or
detachable. Make sure you know where the furniture is its
strongest - generally along a major horizontal element - and
try to carry it from these points.
Then examine the room and the route whereby the furniture is
to be moved. Look around to make sure you know where
everything is. Identify potential trouble. Light fixtures
that hang low, for examples, or that extend out from the
wall may be damaged or cause damage. Glass table tops are
also easily damaged if bumped. If necessary, clear the way
by moving or removing fragile or obstructive items. Protect
the furniture to be moved with soft padding or wrap it in a
blanket pad. Padding, which will provide extra insurance
against bumping and gouging, is especially important if an
item is going into storage.
Before moving an item, make sure you know exactly where it
goes next. Plan ahead to adjust the temperature and relative
humidity in the new location so they are the same as where
the furniture presently is. Extreme changes in temperature
and humidity can cause splitting of joints and veneers.
Never hurry when you are moving furniture. Scratches, dents,
and gouges from bumps against hand truck, doorways, and
other furniture are always more likely in haste. Each item
needs to be approached individually, without haste, and with
sufficient manpower present.
Make sure you have a firm grip on the piece with both hands.
Do not wear cotton gloves. It is essential that hands not
slip from a piece of furniture while it is being moved.
Never slide or drag furniture along the floor. The vibration
can loosen or break joints, chip feet, break legs, etc., to
say nothing of what dragging does to the carpeting or finish
on the floor. Whenever possible, use trolleys or dollies for
transporting heavy pieces.
Handling valuable furnishings requires a special attitude:
in general, movement should be carried out at a slower pace.
Here are some quick tips for moving furniture properly.
Remember: If you don't break it, it doesn't have to be
fixed! Just as gymnasts work with "spotters" to catch them
when they misstep, have helpers on hand to guide the movers
so they don't crash into walls or other pieces of furniture
Anticipate trouble; think through every step; plan ahead;
and do everything with care
Make sure the route is clear and has no obstructions, such
as narrow doorways or hanging chandeliers that might hinder
the safe passage of furniture and movers
The following sections offer suggestions for moving specific
types of furniture.
Seating Furniture
When lifting a chair, remember that the seat rail is its
strongest part, not the chair back. Frequently lifting by
the back, especially the crest rail, will eventually result
in breakage. For small chairs, lift by the side seat rails,
one hand near the front on one side, the other near the rear
on the other side.
When lifting a large chair or sofa, the principles are the
same. Grab underneath the side frame, making sure to lift
with your legs rather than your back. For upholstered chairs
or sofas, place your hands underneath the frame to avoid
touching the upholstery. If upholstery must be touched, use
cotton gloves. For chairs with slip seats, remove the slip
seat and wrap and move it separately to prevent its being
soiled or falling out during the move.
Tables
The strongest part of a table is generally the apron.
Whenever possible, lift the table carefully from the apron,
never by the top or legs. Lifting on the top rather than the
apron may break the glue-blocks that hold the top to the
frame or strip out the screws that hold the top on. Grabbing
the legs, particularly tables with long, unsupported legs,
will cause unnecessary stress on the leg and the joint
connecting it to the apron. Whenever possible, wrap padding
around a table's legs before moving it to prevent chipping
or breakage during the move.
If you are moving a drop-leaf table, first determine which
support members move. Is the table leaf supported by a
bracket or by a swing-leg? Fold the leaves down, and
restrain them with padding and a tie band. If the support is
provided by a swing-leg or gate-leg, tie it in place as
well. The only safe place to grab a drop-leaf table is
underneath the end aprons. Grabbing by the legs, especially
swing-legs, will increase the chance of damage to them, and
grabbing the table by the side leaves will often result in
fracturing the long rule joint that allows the leaves to
drop.
Case Furniture
While case pieces, especially large ones, may appear very
different from tables and chairs, the same rules apply.
Never try to move a large piece by yourself. A case piece
requires at least two people. While a case piece requires
can be moved by carrying it carefully, holding on to the
bottom as you would a table or chair, it is better to move
the piece on a dolly. A dolly makes the move safer for both
the movers and the object, and that is all the more true for
large objects.
First, examine the piece. How was is put together? And how
can it come apart? Take the piece apart as much as is
possible. That is, remove the top piece of a cabinet from
its base; remove the cornice or pediment, if there is one.
If the carcass is sturdy enough, remove an drawers to
lighten the load and make the move easier. Carry the drawers
separately to the destination. However, if the carcass is
weak and shifts from side-to-side, leave the drawers in
place to provide stability and prevent further damage to the
joints. Tall pieces that do not come apart into separate
sections need to be set on their sides on a dolly to prevent
their topping over.
If the piece has handles, wrap them with padding. Padding
protects the handles, the furniture surface (if the handles
have swinging bales or drops), the movers, and the
surroundings in case you bump up against anything.
Never grab a heavy piece like a chest of drawers or bookcase
by the cornice at the top. The attachment of the top to the
base may be loosened and pull apart from the rest of the
piece.
Lift the piece straight up, using your legs, not your back.
Don't let it tilt, and do not grab it by its hardware or any
other protrusions.
Large Clocks
The moving project becomes increasingly difficult with
objects that are large and complex. Objects that come apart
into many pieces or are unwieldy require extra care and
preparation. Because of their many parts grandfather and
grandmother clocks are very difficult to move.
Always remove the pendulum and weights from within the clock
before doing anything else. These pieces are heavy and will
damage the clock case if they smash into the side of the
case. They may also cause damage to the mechanism itself.
Wear cotton gloves when you remove the pendulum and weights,
to avoid corroding the metal pieces from skin contact.
Remove the hood from the top of the clock (they often slide
forward), and lay it down to pack and move separately. Make
sure the door to the case is locked or securely closed
before moving the clock. Use bare hands, not gloves, for
moving and packing the carcass of the case. For short moves,
like those of only a few feet, it is permissible to lift by
grabbing the narrow case from the underside of the molding
at the top of the waist, or center portion of the case,
provided that the molding is firmly attached to the case
itself. For longer moves, or if that molding is not secure,
the clock case should be carried flat like a coffin.
Tip #18 - Furniture Maintenance
The guidelines for furniture maintenance are pretty simple.
If the furniture is used wisely and handled carefully, it
will need very little in the way of routine maintenance. But
in cleaning and polishing furniture surfaces and hardware,
and in re-upholstering, some well-intentioned caretakers
introduce damage. In fact, a lot of what furniture
conservators do is respond to destructive maintenance
practices.
Cleaning Surfaces
For the most part, maintaining furniture simply means
keeping it clean, carefully. Wood furniture usually needs to
be cleaned only when there is a buildup of wax or dirt. Only
unfinished wood, painted wood, or wood with a sturdy finish
should be cleaned. The finish on giltwood is often applied
with a water-soluble size, or adhesive; it should be
carefully dusted, not cleaned, or cleaned only by a
professional.
Before cleaning wood or coatings, the first and most
important step is to evaluate the surface and make sure that
the surface or coating is stable and not apt to be damaged
by the contact required in cleaning and polishing. If the
surface is unstable, the polishing could knock off loose
portions. Damaged surfaces should be referred to a
conservator.
After the soundness of the surface has been established, the
next step is to find out what the dirt is and what the
surface is. If you can't determine these exactly, find out
what removes the dirt without affecting the surface
underneath it. Often, dust can be removed with the careful
wipe of a damp cloth. Oily dirt or waxy residue can be
removed with a mild detergent and water solution or with
mineral spirits. However, it is vital to make sure that the
cleaning solution does not affect the underlying surface.
Even when you determine a cleaning method that works
successfully, proceed cautiously.
Loose dust on the surface can be removed with a soft,
lint-free cloth, gently rubbed over the surface. Dust is an
abrasive and can scratch the surface, so be careful. Uneven
areas can be dusted with a clean, natural bristle paint or
artist's brush. Again, do not try to dust a surface that is
severely deteriorated. Cloth fibers can catch and tear away
pieces of the finish, veneer or loose parts. Even rough
edges can splinter. Carving, fretwork, and other delicate
work can be dusted with a soft bristle brush, with a vacuum
cleaner host held close enough to take in the dust one it is
dislodged by the brush. Do not use feather dusters, as they
can scratch and pull off loose fragments of veneer.
Surfaces in good condition but with a heavy accumulation of
dust can be cleaned very carefully with a vacuum cleaner.
Use the lowest suction available and the round brush
attachment. Don't let the metal or hard plastic parts of the
vacuum bump into the surfaces; they can scratch the finish
or wood. Much damage, in fact, occurs as the feet and bases
of pieces are hit with the vacuum cleaner.
Dirt that cannot be simply vacuumed off may be removed with
cleaners mixed in a dilute solution, but only if the finish
is in good solid condition. First, determine which solvent
removes the dirt without removing the finish. Those to be
tested include mineral spirits (white spirit), paint
thinner, and naphtha. Second, test a small spot in an
obscure area with the solution on a cotton swab. All areas
that appear to be a different coating or material must be
tested separately. Only if the solution does not damage the
test area should it be used to clean the rest of the piece.
For finished wood, dampen a cotton cloth with the solvent or
cleaning solution, and gently rub over a small area at a
time. Avoid using too much liquid, as they can cause damage.
Then, wipe the cleaned surface with a clean dampened cloth
to remove any cleanser residues, followed by a dry soft
cloth.
Following simple cleaning, further protection and aesthetic
enhancement can be obtained through the application of a
stable, hard furniture polish, such as a hard paste wax. The
hard wax surface can be dusted more easily because it will
be more smooth, and the dust will not be imbedded in it as
it would in an unwaxed surface. Waxing need only occur
infrequently because the wax itself is not readily removed
and it does not degrade chemically. Waxing too often can
result in a built-up, clouded surface.
This simple approach avoids the problems created by popular
methods of "furniture polishing" - such as sprays and oily
polishes - that may result in cumulative damage to
furniture. Many polishes and residues continue to be a
vexing problem for furniture conservators, as they can build
up over time and with numerous applications, trapping and
adhering airborne dirt onto the surface.
For a more in-depth discussion of furniture polishes, refer
to the appendix at the end of this text.
Cleaning Upholstery
Dusting upholstery can be accomplished by a vacuum cleaner.
Place a soft screen on the surface to prevent any snagging
or abrasion from the vacuum tip, and using a brush
attachment, carefully vacuum the surface.
Stains and other damage to upholstery should be referred to
an upholstery or textile conservator for further treatment.
Metal Hardware
One never-ending concern of furniture caretakers is for the
hardware, including handles, brackets, hinges and
escutcheons attached, usually with nails, to the outer
surface of a piece. The metal in hardware might be brass,
silver, gold-plated bronze, depending upon the style, date
and country of origin. Contemporary hardware attachments
sometimes have a clear lacquer finish that gives them a
shiny appearance. Antique hardware is also sometimes coated
by restorers and conservators to eliminate the need for
constant polishing. There is currently a lot of debate in
the conservation field as to whether metal hardware should
be lacquered or polished. Neither is an option is there is
evidence of an original varnish or if abrasive polishing
would remove some other original surface treatment.
Furniture hardware may become dirty and tarnished with use
and exposure to the atmosphere. In such cases, polishing it
can be justified. However, even this step is sometimes a
poorly informed one. One common example of the damage is
created by polishing hardware supposed to be brass, when it
is really gilded bronze that is simply dirty. Polishing
removes the gold, damaging the surface of a beautiful
sculptural element.
If you choose to polish, remove the hardware from the piece,
noting the exact location of each screw and nut. Polishing
the hardware while on the piece damages the surrounding
finish and also allows polishes to run beneath the hardware
that can further damage both the metal hardware and the
finish.
Clean hardware carefully with a 50/50 mix of acetone and
alcohol to remove any dirt and oil residue, scrubbing the
piece with a soft bristle brush. After drying, the surface
can be polished with a fine, lint-free cloth of felt block
charged with a very fine abrasive, such as calcium carbonate
or jeweler's micro polish, in an alcohol or mineral spirits
slurry. Commercial polishes can contribute to the
deterioration of the hardware, as they frequently contain
harsh cleaners that corrode the metal.
If the hardware cannot be removed safely from the furniture
it can be polished and coated on the object provided the
following precautions are scrupulously followed. First, the
surface of the wood and varnish must be completely
protected. Acetate sheets, such as those found in office
supply stores, can be notched and slid under the hardware
from both sides to form an overlapping barrier. Without this
precaution, attempts to polish the hardware will likely end
in disaster.
Since this hardware cannot be doused with the acetone and
alcohol mixture, cleaning must be done by dipping swabs in
the solution, then rubbing the metal surface with the swab.
Polishing must also be done more carefully, perhaps on a
smaller scale.
After polishing, remove all residues. The surface of the
hardware that has been removed from the furniture can be
easily coated with a transparent resin before the hardware
is replaced on the piece. Particular care must be used in
applying any coating when the hardware cannot be removed, to
make sure that no protective varnish for the hardware gets
on the furniture piece itself.
Tip #19 - Furniture Polishes
There are several factors to weigh when deciding to use
polishes and waxes on furniture and other wooden objects.
One critical factor is that the ingredients in commercial
polishes and cleaning products are rarely disclosed.
Moreover, these ingredients can be, and frequently are,
changed without warning or notification. These ingredients
may be harmless or harmful to the furniture (and to you) and
you have no way of knowing in advance.
Polishing products are available in three forms: aerosol
(spray); liquid; and semisolid. Here is a quick look at
their benefits and drawbacks.
Aerosols (Spray Polishes)
Aerosols are convenient. However, they have been among the
worst offenders in introducing silicone oils and other
contaminants onto furniture. In addition, they may contain
solvents that attack varnishes and lacquers. While some of
the "dusting" aerosols appear to be benign when applied to a
cloth and not the piece of furniture, the result is similar
to using a damp, clean dust cloth.
Liquids
Like aerosols, liquid polishes are easy to use. There are
two primary forms of commercial liquid products for
"furniture care": emulsion cleaner or polishes and "oil
type" polishes. Emulsion polishes are waxes, oils,
detergents, organic solvents, and other materials suspended
in water for ease of application. These products can be
extremely powerful cleaners that leave a desirable sheen on
the surface. However, the visual effect usually diminishes
as the liquid dries. Moreover, like aerosols, emulsion
polishes can introduce contaminants onto the furniture, but
because they are liquids they place much more volume than
sprays on the furniture surface.
Oil polishes are even more troublesome. Much like emulsion
polishes, oil polishes can be a complex blend of ingredients
including oils, waxes, perfumes, colorants, "cleaners," and
organic solvents. They can render extremely pleasing
surfaces and are used frequently as final finishes by
themselves. However, oils used as polishes or cleaners can
be very damaging.
Nondrying oils (paraffin, mineral, and "lemon oil," which is
usually mineral oil with colorants and perfumes added) tend
to be more benign than drying oils, but even so some oil
remains as a liquid on (or in) the object. Dust and other
airborne contaminants readily stick to wet surfaces,
especially oils. But nondrying oils don't undergo chemical
reactions or directly damage the furniture.
Drying oils, on the other hand, such as linseed, tung, or
walnut oil, are a different matter altogether. These
materials solidify, or "dry" through a chemical reaction
with the air called oxidation. Over time this reaction makes
them increasingly difficult to remove. Their permanence is
fine if the oil is employed as the finish, but not good if
it is used as a maintenance polish. By itself, having a
polish that is difficult to remove would be an irritating
but not an insurmountable problem. Unfortunately, as drying
oils age they tend to yellow and in the presence of acids
they are chromogenic (become Colored), turning a dark, muddy
brown or opaque black.
Traditionally, cleaning and polishing concoctions comprised
of linseed oil, turpentine, beeswax, and vinegar (acetic
acid) were widely used even in the museum field until
recently. They turned out to be a disaster waiting to
happen. The results of their use are readily apparent to
even the casual observer: a thick incrustation of
chocolate-colored goo that is neither hard enough to be
durable nor soft enough to wipe off easily. The furniture is
left with an unsightly coating that is very difficult to
remove without damaging the underlying surface.
Semisolids
By virtually any measure semisolid polishes are the least
damaging to wooden objects. Frequently called "paste waxes,"
these products are actually a very concentrated solution of
waxes. Provided the ingredients do not include undesirable
contaminants like silicone or high concentrations of
damaging organic solvents such as alcohol, xylene, or
toluene, paste waxes are an excellent polish for the
surfaces of most wooden objets. Because waxes are
exceedingly stable and don't cause many of the problems
inherent in the previously mentioned polishes, they are the
material of choice for furniture conservators and other
caretakers of furniture and wooden objects. But paste waxes
have their faults too: unfortunately, they require the most
active contact with the surface of the furniture, and also
need the most physical labor for proper application. Buffing
out a wax polish can be very hard work, and in general, the
better quality the wax, the harder the buffing that is
needed. However, the results and benefits to the furniture
are worth the extra effort.
Fortunately, as the most durable and stable polishing
material, paste wax needs to be applied much less often than
aerosols or liquids. Ideally, wax polishing should be
conducted no more than twice a year for areas of extremely
heavy wear (desktops, chair arms, etc.) and once every three
or four years for table and chair legs, cabinets, and
similar areas.
If a surface can no longer be buffed to the sheen
appropriate for a waxed surface, it is likely that the wax
has worn off. In that case, apply another light coat of wax
to the affected area in accordance with the product
instructions. Wax that is applied too frequently or
improperly can build-up and cause an unsightly surface. When
the wax is used correctly, however, the solvent content of
the new wax will "clean off" any previous wax remaining on
the surface and will simply integrate the old into the new.
Tip #20 - Is it oil Based or latex/acrylic paint
To determine what type of paint is on your furniture, brush
some stripper on an inconspicuous spot and see what happens.
If it is oil based, the paint will wrinkle and bubble. If it
just softens up into a slimy goo, it is latex or acrylic.
Oil based paint is the easiest to remove.
Tip #21 - Purchasing a New Mattress
When shopping for a mattress wear shoes you can get in and
out of easily.
Test the mattress by laying full-length out on the bed. Try
it out like you're going to use it, and spend some time on
it to see how it really feels. If you feel silly, just think
how silly you're going to feel when you don't sleep
comfortably after spending all that money!
Note the gauge of the wire as well as the coil count. The
smaller the #, the heavier the wire is.
Always buy box springs at the same time. They are made to be
a set.
Use a heavy-duty bed frame with good center support.
Stick with a name brand.
Don't assume that a higher price means a better mattress.
Stay away from department stores - they're always higher and
sometimes the name-brand companies make mattresses to fit
the store's specifications. You might not be getting the
mattress you think you are. Look for a mattress warehouse or
factory.
Remember that all "pillow top" mattresses will get body
impressions (except latex toppers.)
Make sure your mattress has a non pro rata warranty of 10
years.
Shop around, compare delivery prices, and find out if the
company will remove your old mattress for you.
Buy a mattress with a minimum of 312 coils (fine for
children), with 540 being the absolute best. Full-size
should have at least 300, queen-size at least 375 and
king-size at least 450.
Check factory specifications closely.
For the bed to be right, it should yield enough for you to
sink slightly, but not too much, into the bed. LIE DOWN on
the mattress, preferably with your sleeping partner, before
you buy. You're not going to be bouncing up and down on the
edge of the mattress with you get home!
For a dry bed, choose a mattress with comfort layers made of
latex and insulating pat made of coconut fiber. Stay away
from wool because wool can grow mold when damp that could
trigger asthma problems.
A mattress should be an innerspring at least nine inches
thick. Don't buy budget when you're buying a mattress. A
good mattress will last you 10 to 15 years and will end up
costing only pennies a night even at the high-end prices.
Shop smart, but don't scrimp.
Mattress Terms
Foundation - absorbs the shock of daily wear and provides
support and durability.
Core - provides support for the body and can be spring, air,
foam or water.
Upholstery - Adds comfort and cushioning.
Coil Count - the number of coils in the mattress. High coil
count gives better contouring while lower coil count if
firmer.
Contour - how the mattress coils conform to the body for
comfort.
Box Spring - supports and cushions the mattress.
Innerspring - the inner support of the mattress composed of
hundreds of wire coils held together by wire or cloth.
Wire gauge - thickness of the wire coils. The thicker the
wire, the less flexible the coils.
Comfort level - can vary from manufacturer to manufacturer
with Plush being soft and fluffy, Firm being standard
cushioning and Pillowtop being a mattress with extra layers
of cushioning.
Non pro-rated warranty - a manufacturer's warranty against
defects.
Pro-rated warranty - offers less coverage based on the
number of years in the warranty.
Tip #22 - About Leather Furniture
It used to be that only the upper crust could afford to own
real leather furniture; the rest of us had to make do with
synthetic substitutes. But in recent years, prices have
started to come down as leather has become more popular.
Manufacturers are offering a greater choice in styles,
making it possible to find leather to suit almost every
taste and budget. Before you invest in this practical,
versatile furniture, saddle up with some savvy buying tips.
Grade
Grade is the most important feature of leather's
quality--and an indicator of durability and price.
Manufacturers and showrooms use similar vocabulary to
describe grade, which makes the buyer's job easier. Top
grain indicates leather taken from the desirable outer
surface of the hide. Leathers taken from the lower surfaces
are split grains, and are much weaker. All but the least
expensive furniture should be made from top grains.
Top-grain leathers are graded based on the ways
manufacturers prepare the leather.
Aniline (or "pure" or "full" aniline) leather is soaked in
aniline dye, but does not have other finishes or pigments
applied. Only the best hides are used for this superbly soft
leather. Semi-aniline (or "protected" aniline) leathers have
a small amount of coating or pigment, giving them slightly
better protection against stains and fading. Pigmented
leathers are fully treated with surface color. Made from
lesser-grade hides, they are stiffer than anilines, but also
more stain- and scuff-resistant, and more affordable.
Finish
Leathers are graded by how much manufacturers have to do to
get them ready for market. Nearly perfect, mark-free hides
are rare and, therefore, highly prized. Most anilines will
have visible markings, such as wrinkles and scars, that
contribute to their natural beauty. Like a well-worn wallet
or bomber jacket, they develop a lustrous patina with age
and use.
Keep in mind that added finishes and surface pigments aren't
necessarily bad. In fact, if you prefer more consistent
color in your furniture, untreated anilines may not be for
you. Finishes and pigments also provide greater protection
from scratches, stains, and sun fading. The "best" leather,
in other words, is by no means always the best choice for
your family or situation.
Texture
The texture of leather furniture, like its appearance, is
partly a function of its grade. The highest quality hides
become the softest and most supple leathers. (In
industry-speak, they have a more luxurious "hand," or feel.)
Pigmented leathers and "corrected grain" leathers (those
that have been buffed to remove obvious surface
imperfections) have a stiffer hand. Beyond these
differences, the following texturing techniques can give
leather its distinctive appearance and feel:
Nubuck leathers are lightly brushed or abraded, resulting in
a short nap with a plush softness. Nubucks are top-grain
leathers, so they last longer than do their cousins, suedes.
Nubucks also have the advantage of being treated with a
protectant that makes them more stain-resistant than other
anilines. Suedes approximate the look and feel of nubucks
but are made from less-durable split grains.
Sauvage is a two-toned effect that lends depth to leather,
producing a marbled or creased appearance.
Pull-up leathers are full anilines that have an oil or wax
application. When the leather is pulled, or stretched, the
oil or wax separates, producing a lighter burst of color.
The pull-up technique is used for distressed or weathered
looks.
Embossed leathers are corrected grains that have a new
pattern or grain imprinted on them with high heat or
pressure, resulting in anything from alligator to floral
effects.
Cost
Grade will largely determine how much you pay for leather
furniture. A sofa made from top-grain leather will range
from $700 (a good sale on corrected-grain, pigmented
leather) to $6,000 or more for designer names and pure
aniline leather.
Leather may take slightly more care and upkeep than fabric
upholstery. But in the long run, it's worth the trouble.
Here are tips for preventive maintenance:
* Keep leather furniture away from heat sources, which will
eventually dry the leather out.
* Place furniture out of direct sunlight, which causes
leather to fade.
* Vacuum leather regularly to remove dust.
* Blot any spills immediately with a dry cloth, and let air
dry.
* Regularly use the recommended cleaners or creams to
improve leather's resistance to staining and to keep it soft
and supple.
Care
Leather-care products are available from furniture
manufacturers and stores; salespeople can recommend products
for the furniture you select. Many retailers also offer
leather warranties. For a moderate price (about $100 for a
seven-year warranty on a sofa, half that for a chair), your
leather will be repaired or replaced if it cracks, stains,
or tears, ensuring that you will enjoy it for years to come.
Tip #23 - Glass Table Tops
Glass tops can protect your wooden tables, but don't let
moisture get trapped between glass and wood. Create an
airspace by elevating the glass top on clear butyl rubber
bumpers available at most glass shops and let your wooden
table tops breathe.
Tip #24 - Wood Screw Lubrication
Wood screws go in a lot easier when you scrape the threads
across some candle or bees wax or a bar of soap first.
Tip #25 - Removing Candle wax from a table top.
If some melted wax gets on your table top, hopefully it
hasn't hurt the finish. Since you just cant wipe it off with
a damp cloth, you have to scrape it off. Yes it sounds
scary, but it isn't really. The scraping tool of choice
would be an ordinary credit card. You shouldn't try to
scrape it all off at once, but by taking it off in thin
layers, it will eventually come off. Since the card is
softer than the finish, (We Hope), is doesn't scratch the
surface. Once you get as much off as you can, you can then
remove the remaining wax with a soft cloth dipped in lemon
oil.
Some colored candles can stain a finish. If this happens, it
is best to try some rubbing techniques.
If your table has a satin or dull sheen, grab a pad of OOOO
Steel wool and some lemon oil or wool lube . Put some on the
pad and rub the spot moving in the direction of the grain.
Once the spot is gone, you may need to rub the rest of the
table top so the sheen is even. Make sure you go with the
grain in long even strokes from one end to the other. To
finish the task, simply wipe off the remaining oil and apply
your favorite polish.
If you have a glossy sheen, You may try using a little bit
of white tooth paste on a dry cotton towel. If this leaves a
glossier spot than the rest of the table, then you will need
to get some rubbing compounds and polishes like you would
use on a car's finish. If a mirror finish is not what you
want, you can always adjust it down with the OOOO steel
wool. Don't forget to use your favorite polish when your
done.
Tip #26 - Removing oil from a wood surface.
The only way to pull grease and oil out of wood is with a
poultice. Go to your swimming pool place and get a bag of
diatomite or commonly known as diatomaceous earth. Grab a
couple of gallons of acetone also from hardware or paint
store. Mix the two together to form a paste you can spread
over the top. You will need about a 1/2" layer of it. As the
acetone dries, the oil gets pulled into the DE .Once it is
dry, scrape it off into the trash and repeat if necessary.
Most likely it will take at least three applications. You
might try putting a heat source directly under the slab at
the same time which will drive more oil to the surface.
You will need to do it in outdoors because of the intensely
flammable and highly smelly fumes.
Tip #27 - What kind of finish is it?
To determine what type of finish you are dealing with, You
will need to do a solvent test. Put some acetone or
fingernail polish remover on a finger and rub it in an
inconspicuous spot to see if the finish starts to soften. If
it does, you are dealing with nitrocellulose lacquer which
is predominantly used in the furniture industry. If it
doesn't soften, try some denatured alcohol the same way. If
it softens with alcohol, you have a shellac finish. If
neither one seems to soften the finish, you are either
dealing with varnish, polyurethane, catalyzed lacquer,
conversion varnish or polyester which are all non-reactive
finishes that can't be re-dissolved by their original
solvent
Tip #28 - Gluing Down Loose Veneer
If the top is removed, it will be easier to do the clamping
during the glue job. Use some liquid hide glue made by the
Franklin company since it will bond well with the old hide
glue. Try to work some of the glue underneath the loose
stuff keeping in mind the there are most likely two layers
of veneer. The top layer and the substrate layer which has
the wood grain running in the opposite direction than the
top layer. You may have to feed glue between all the layers.
A long thin bladed spatula is what I use.
Once you have sufficient glue to all recesses, you need to
squeeze out all of the excess glue with a veneer hammer,
J-roller, or wall paper roller. Keep a damp rag handy to
catch the drips.
To clamp it, you will need a flat block of wood that is at
least the same size as the loose portion, some C type
clamps, and some wax paper to put under the clamp block to
keep it from sticking once the glue dries. If you are gluing
a descent size area, you will want to start the clamping
from the inside working your way to the outside. This will
help squeeze out more extra glue that isn't needed, so keep
you rag handy again. What you don't want is a pocket of
extra dried glue under the surface resembling a bubble on
the finished product. If you are gluing in a loose piece or
patch, I have found it helpful to use a piece of thick clear
lexan as the glue block. This allows me to see through it to
make sure the piece hasn't slid on me while clamping. The
hide glue doesn't stick to the lexan, so no wax paper is
needed.
After drying overnight, you can remove the clamps and block.
If the block is stuck, tap the side of it with a hammer like
you are spinning it. Lifting it off could take the veneer
with it. If you have a finished surface with glue residue on
it, a warm wet rag will dissolve the hide glue.
Tip #29 - Buying upholstered sofas, love seats, and
chairs
When buying upholstered chairs, love seats, and sofas, there
are a few things to consider.
There are two types of frames, the cheaper plywood frame and
the better hardwood frame. The cheaper frame is more prone
to loosing a spring if someone sits down to hard or you have
kids that like to jump. If that happens, fixing it could
cost you. The hardwood frame won't do you any good unless it
is put together with dowel joints.
Stay away from upholstered recliners that have the foot rest
that pops out. I have yet to see one that is worth buying.
Even worse is the sofa with the recliner built into it.
As for the fabrics, the cottons won't last near as long as
the synthetics. A good heavy tapestry will wear like iron.
Make sure you ask a lot of questions. What is the warrantee?
Do they deliver? Can it be upgraded with a better fabric or
legs? Make sure you shop around.
Tip #30 - Removing super glue from a finish.
This can be a tricky one even for a professional. The only
thing you can try is some 600 grit wet or dry sandpaper and
a hard flat sanding block. Make sure you hold the block
level while sanding the glue down flush. You will get into
the surrounding finish, so try to keep it to a minimum. If
the glue is pretty thick, you might mask around the spot to
protect the area around it.
Once you get it sanded level, you will need to finish
sanding the spot with 1200 grit paper.
To get the shine back on a high gloss finish, it will take
some rubbing compounds and polishes on a cotton rag and some
elbow grease. Apply your favorite polish to finish it up.
If your table has a satin or dull sheen, grab a pad of OOOO
Steel wool and some lemon oil or wool lube . Put some on the
pad and rub the spot moving in the direction of the grain.
Once the spot is gone, you may need to rub the rest of the
table top so the sheen is even. Make sure you go with the
grain in long even strokes from one end to the other. To
finish the task, simply wipe off the remaining oil and apply
your favorite polish.
Tip #31 - Buying antiques
Your best defense when buying antiques as an investment is
simply to be well informed. Read books from the library, ask
questions of dealers, know what you are shopping for and
what it should be worth. Most dealers specialize and so
should you, no one knows everything about everything. If you
are buying the piece because you like it and not as an
investment, the only criteria is how much you like it and
how much you can afford.
Tip #32 - What kind of glue should I use?
When it comes to doing repairs, it is very important to use
the proper glue for the job. When it comes to re-gluing
joints on furniture made prior to 1955, my favorite is
Franklin brand liquid hide glue. It has very good tack and
strength plus has a longer working time which comes in handy
for re-gluing chairs.
Furniture made after 1955 to present day is constructed with
PVA (Poly Vinyl Acetate). It is the pale yellow glue for
woodworking or carpentry. If your project requires a long
open time, this is not the glue of choice. You are better
off with the hide glue.
For broken components that are hard to clamp and wont ever
need to come back apart, I would recommend a five to thirty
minute epoxy. I don't recommend using this glue for the
joints unless you have a lot of play in them. It is the best
gap filling glue out there.
For fixing hairline cracks that you can't get conventional
glues into, You can use a thin or thick cyanoacrylate
commonly known as super glue. It works even better if you
use an accelerator to speed up the hardening process. You
might want to shop at a model airplane store to find it. I
don't recommend this glue in areas that need to be
structurally significant. Remember to keep a bottle of
fingernail polish remover on hand just incase you glue your
fingers together or to the furniture.
Furniture Knowledge provides furniture restoration
supplies and advice to help you with your woodworking and
furniture building projects. For more information go
to:
www.furnitureknowledge.com |
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